Manjack (Nunjack) Cay

When we originally arrived at Green Turtle Cay, we chose to tie up in a slip at Bluff House Resort in White Sound. Our buddy boat “Tally Ho” however, elected to travel a few miles further south to Black Sound where they docked at Leeward Marina. But both of us were eager to explore Manjack--a pretty island not far away. And so we arranged to meet in our dinghys just offshore Green Turtle early the next morning and travel together to that Cay. We packed picnic lunches and, after meeting up out on the water, enjoyed a smooth trip over. It was fun skimming across small turquoise waves alongside our friends with wind whipping our hair and sun shining on skin! With both of our dinghys “up on a plane” we were able to make good time reaching the small cove on Manjacks western shore in a little over half an hour. Here we found a few sailboats bobbing at anchor and a collection of beach chairs and picnic tables scattered around a fire pit on a small crescent of sandy shore.

More than thirty years ago a young couple came upon this place and, after purchasing a few acres, worked to develop it into a self-sustaining homestead. Their house, sitting upon a small bluff of land overlooking the anchorage, is surrounded by an organic garden where they grow all manner of fruits and vegetables. Their operation is now almost entirely “off-grid” with solar panels and a wind generator supplying most of their energy needs. We were fortunate enough to meet them during our explorations of the island and stopped to talk for some time. They were very hospitable and extended a warm welcome to us--as they do to all boaters who land on their shores. They hoped we would return for their next “full moon party” which is held on a regular basis on Manjack and involves a bonfire, food and fellowship between all those who choose to attend.

After beaching our dinghy upon the sheltered shore of this island, we made our way with “Tally Ho” through a jungly path which eventually took us over to the Atlantic side. Here a long line of sandy beach stretches in both directions along the entire length of the cay. Vanessa and I were eager to get on with beach combing and within the course of the day found three highly prized “hamburger beans” and many beautifully preserved “sea biscuits”. We enjoyed a delicious picnic lunch and cool drinks mid-day and came across a half completed cottage which had been abandoned by another homesteader, further along during our explorations. We have noticed this type of thing happening almost everywhere we have travelled in the Bahamas. Someone has a “dream” for a resort or cottage development. And although a start is made, the enterprise is eventually abandoned. Whether this is a recent trend brought about by the world-wide recession or simply the way it has always been in this part of the world, we have no way of knowing--since our own explorations have only occurred within the last 4 years. I think the weather may have a lot to do with it. Hurricanes are an annual possibility in these islands and have literally smashed the dreams of many who come to build a future here. And the strong winds and cooler temperatures of recent years are keeping many would-be cruisers and vacationers away. With global warming and a world-wide stalled economic recovery, this trend may well continue far into the future. But there is no point in dwelling upon things over which we as cruisers have no control. We can only be grateful for each day we are privileged to enjoy here with friends in this beautiful place. The time we spent with Vanessa and Andrew from “Tally Ho” was one such day, and we will both cherish and remember it forever.