GREEN TURTLE CAY

Green Turtle Cay is a favourite stopping off point for boats either clearing customs into the Bahamas or waiting for weather to venture out around “The Whale”. The charming village of New Plymouth--the only settlement on the island--was established over 200 years ago by United Empire Loyalists fleeing persecution by the Americans after the Revolutionary War, and descendants of these settlers still populate the island today. Green Turtle Cay is divided geographically into two halves--peaceful White Sound to the north and busy Black Sound in the south. But both of these sounds and the village itself are only a short five minute dinghy ride away from each other.

WHITE SOUND

The entrance to White Sound is probably deep enough to allow us to enter at low tide--just. But we always choose to go in and out on a rising tide--just in case. Once inside this placid pear shaped “pond” you can understand why so many cruisers enjoy being here. The waters are ringed with palm trees and lush foliage with a small crescent of sandy beach at one end. Here sits the Green Turtle Club--an “old” established resort(marina) with an elegance and ambience reminiscent of a bygone era. Inside it is all polished wood, thick carpets and snowy tablecloths. Outside, bougainvillea spills over decks and schools of colourful fish dart about in the shallows off the beach. On one trip over for breakfast Vince and I actually saw a dolphin frolicking in the waters just off the docks! The “bar” at the Green Turtle Club is one of the most memorable places I have ever seen. Many years ago American servicemen stationed at nearby Allan-Pensacola Cay coming here for R&R, established a unique tradition--evidence of which exists to this day. Before heading back to base, they would leave behind a $US dollar bill with a buddy’s name penned across the front of it. This would be pinned to the wall of the bar with the understanding that the “buddy” could retrieve it later to pay for his drink. Of course none of these bills were ever redeemed and over the years more and more were added to the walls until now there are literally THOUSANDS of them papering every inch of wall space and much of the ceiling! It is an awesome sight and not to be missed. We REALLY love the understated elegance of the Green Turtle Club and it is definitely one of our favourite places in the Bahamas.

The only other establishment in White Sound is the Bluff House Yacht Club and Beach Hotel, which in its own unique way, is every bit as wonderful as Green Turtle Club. Because this place is more of an actual marina catering to boaters, and because of it’s great rates--dockage at $.50ft for RMHYC members (which we now are)--this is where we choose to tie up when in White Sound. But we DO dinghy off to the Green Turtle Club occasionally to enjoy a meal--that way we experience the best of both worlds. There are currently some great “deals” being offered for boaters at these 2 marinas. Both establishments are currently offering “docking for dollars,” a docking and dining combo that allows you to eat and drink your dockage fees away. This is how it works. First you pay normal dockage fees--$1.25ft at Bluff House (I don’t know what they are at Green Turtle). For us that translates into being charged $45./day for a slip. But then, the cost of anything you eat and drink at the restaurant/bar is “free” until you spend the amount you were charged for dockage. We for example, would therefore be allowed $45. worth of free dinners and drinks each day we are here. You can’t beat that!

Bluff House is all decks, sunshine, gaily striped wicker furnishings and Caribbean music. There is a gorgeous swimming pool surrounded by loungers and palm trees right next to the bar and its comfortable lounge has deeply cushioned sofas, oversized chairs and a big screen TV. The grounds of Bluff House are extensive with laneways spilling up over a bluff and down the other side to a wide sugar sand beach. Colourful foliage, flowers and trim pastel cottages dot the hillside and it is a safe and comfortable place to be. There is nothing much else in White Sound. A few private homes line the winding roads that skirt the shorelines and lead eventually to town. But that’s about it. and for us, it’s just enough.

WHITE SOUND

The entrance to White Sound is probably deep enough to allow us to enter at low tide--just. But we always choose to go in and out on a rising tide--just in case. Once inside this placid pear shaped “pond” you can understand why so many cruisers enjoy being here. The waters are ringed with palm trees and lush foliage with a small crescent of sandy beach at one end. Here sits the Green Turtle Club--an “old” established resort(marina) with an elegance and ambience reminiscent of a bygone era. Inside it is all polished wood, thick carpets and snowy tablecloths. Outside, bougainvillea spills over decks and schools of colourful fish dart about in the shallows off the beach. On one trip over for breakfast Vince and I actually saw a dolphin frolicking in the waters just off the docks! The “bar” at the Green Turtle Club is one of the most memorable places I have ever seen. Many years ago American servicemen stationed at nearby Allan-Pensacola Cay coming here for R&R, established a unique tradition--evidence of which exists to this day. Before heading back to base, they would leave behind a $US dollar bill with a buddy’s name penned across the front of it. This would be pinned to the wall of the bar with the understanding that the “buddy” could retrieve it later to pay for his drink. Of course none of these bills were ever redeemed and over the years more and more were added to the walls until now there are literally THOUSANDS of them papering every inch of wall space and much of the ceiling! It is an awesome sight and not to be missed. We REALLY love the understated elegance of the Green Turtle Club and it is definitely one of our favourite places in the Bahamas.

The only other establishment in White Sound is the Bluff House Yacht Club and Beach Hotel, which in its own unique way, is every bit as wonderful as Green Turtle Club. Because this place is more of an actual marina catering to boaters, and because of it’s great rates--dockage at $.50ft for RMHYC members (which we now are)--this is where we choose to tie up when in White Sound. But we DO dinghy off to the Green Turtle Club occasionally to enjoy a meal--that way we experience the best of both worlds. There are currently some great “deals” being offered for boaters at these 2 marinas. Both establishments are currently offering “docking for dollars,” a docking and dining combo that allows you to eat and drink your dockage fees away. This is how it works. First you pay normal dockage fees--$1.25ft at Bluff House (I don’t know what they are at Green Turtle). For us that translates into being charged $45./day for a slip. But then, the cost of anything you eat and drink at the restaurant/bar is “free” until you spend the amount you were charged for dockage. We for example, would therefore be allowed $45. worth of free dinners and drinks each day we are here. You can’t beat that!

Bluff House is all decks, sunshine, gaily striped wicker furnishings and Caribbean music. There is a gorgeous swimming pool surrounded by loungers and palm trees right next to the bar and its comfortable lounge has deeply cushioned sofas, oversized chairs and a big screen TV. The grounds of Bluff House are extensive with laneways spilling up over a bluff and down the other side to a wide sugar sand beach. Colourful foliage, flowers and trim pastel cottages dot the hillside and it is a safe and comfortable place to be. There is nothing much else in White Sound. A few private homes line the winding roads that skirt the shorelines and lead eventually to town. But that’s about it. and for us, it’s just enough.

BLACK SOUND

At the other end of the island lies Black Sound--a busier, more interesting place to be than its laid back neighbour to the north. The long narrow sound itself is completely sheltered from all directions and boaters that choose to remain here have the option of anchoring out, using a mooring ball, or tying up to a slip at the Leeward Yacht Club. This new facility offers everything necessary for a good time at bargain prices--1.25/ft for transients, .50/ft for RMHYC members and a long term rate of $125/wk for anyone. It boasts an attractive pool with loungers & an outdoor restaurant for casual dining along with the normal amenities of washrooms, showers and laundry facilities. The only think lacking is an indoor lounge and staff are few and far between. But the really great thing about Black Sound is its easy accessibility in all weather to so many interesting things to see and do. One of the most gorgeous beaches I have ever seen--Gilliam Bay at low tide--is only a short walk away. This bay faces south, but if the wind shifts, there is a long beautiful beach on the eastern side of the island where it’s possible to stroll for many miles in sheltered conditions. The village of New Plymouth is also located here and can easily be reached either by dinghy or by a pleasant walk along paved roads. “Downtown” you can find 3 grocery stores, a variety of simple restaurants, 2 hardware stores, a few gift shops and lots of pretty pastel dwellings. Other places to visit in this charming village include the sculpture garden, an environmental centre, museum, library and a model boat builders shop.

For us the only down side to Black Sound was its shallow entrance, the depths of which Vince was hesitant to test--even at low tide. And once we had settled into the relative luxury of Bluff House with its close proximity to the Green Turtle Club, we were understandably reluctant to leave. What we had not reckoned with however was the fact that in windy conditions (which seem to be the “norm” here) a trip by dinghy to experience the pleasures of Black Sound can be very “wet!” We do have the option of renting a golf cart ($50/day) and travelling over to the busy side of the island should we wish to do so--and probably will later on this week before heading back to Canada Dec. 9th. We are also planning a trip there by dinghy tomorrow to enjoy a special Bahamian lunch sponsored by the townspeople as a fundraiser for 3 local “unfortunates” in need of financial support. We’ll probably get wet on the way over or back but what the heck--it will be an excuse for a warm sudsy shower when we return and that will be fun too!