GEORGETOWN - Week 4

When cruising in the Bahamas EVERYONE eventually ends up in Georgetown—the “mecca” of the Exuma sailing community. But just as they eventually all COME here, so too do they all LEAVE and it’s gut-wrenching when people you’ve shared special experiences with disappear from your life just as easily as they became a part of it. At least half a dozen of our friends have already dispersed towards various points south. A handful have begun the long return journey northwards. Many never attempted the gulf stream crossing at all and a few were forced to limp back stateside after suffering engine problems. Although we’ve exchanged boat cards and e-mail addresses, it’s entirely possible like “ships passing in the night” that we’re gone from each others lives forever.
But despite the reality of “old friends” leaving, there is a constant supply here of “new ones” to take their place. And this week, with light winds and calm seas, we were able to get out and about once again and experienced a very active social life

One Sunday we attended “Beach Church,” a non-denominational Christian fellowship group which we really enjoyed. Everyone sits on benches under the Casuarina trees at Chat ‘n Chill where the “choir” is accompanied by cruisers on guitars. Tina, who had just completed a 3 year circumnavigation with her husband and 2 sons, delivered an inspirational sermon/testimonial about courage and trust—two essential qualities to have when sailing into the unknown—and we all enjoyed coffee, goodies and chatting with one another afterwards.

On Monday morning we joined about 30 other sailors for a very beneficial hour of “gentle yoga” on the beach, and later invited Pam and Ron from “Shadowfax” back to the boat for afternoon coffee and muffins. Later in the week “Blue Pelican” had us all over for “sundowners” and a chance to discuss cruising to the outer islands. Claus and Jenny—the owners of “Blue Pelican”—had just returned from a trip to Long and Conception Islands and were eager to share their experiences with us. They had also spent time in Eleuthera and encouraged us to go to these places next year. We really want to do that. As “comfortable” as Georgetown can become, it does get to be a little “old” after a few weeks here. With all of the organized activities going on, it’s a lot like “adult day camp” and sooner or later most of us become desperate to “get out!”

We did however enjoy some really stimulating intellectual activities this week. Chris Parker, the “Weather Guru,” flew in from Florida on Tuesday for two days of seminars on weather forecasting. Many cruisers in the Caribbean “subscribe” to Chris’ uncannily accurate predictions which are broadcast over single side band radio every morning at 6:30am. He has “saved our bacon” more than once and we were fortunate to have the opportunity to attend a seminar, meet him in person and thank him for the invaluable services that he provides to sailors cruising in these waters.

Later in the week we attended a very informative session on “Marine Insurance” provided by a sailor who had managed an agency in Maryland for many years before leaving to go cruising. We acquired a lot of useful “need to know” facts at this meeting and left fully prepared to re-negotiate our policy for next year.

Finally, a visiting professor of Marine Biology from the University of Charleston provided us with an outstanding lecture/slide show on “reef ecology”. We learned about facilities located here in the Exumas working to conserve marine life in the Bahamas and were made aware of research being done to try to discover what is killing off the coral in reefs both here and worldwide at such an alarming rate. It is a very complex problem which cannot simplistically be blamed on hurricanes and tourism. His discussion was fascinating and gave us a lot to think about. Hopefully, when we return to the Bahamas next year, we’ll have an opportunity to visit some of the research centres and offer to help out in whatever capacity we can be of service.

When not attending seminars this week, we were out snorkeling around some big coral heads just off the beach and hiking the trails winding over Stocking Island. “Second Chance” finally arrived in Georgetown and we spent a great afternoon with Vivien and Chris reliving our adventures together, exchanging books, and hearing their news. But the most surprising event of the week was the sudden reappearance of Steve from “Lorcha” who we hadn’t seen or heard from in over 3 months! We ran into him quite unexpectedly on the streets of Georgetown and have enjoyed his company on several occasions since. He had a colourful tale to tell of his voyage alone across the gulf stream and of the various adventures that eventually brought him via the island of Andros to the Exumas. But he’s going south now to Cuba and we’re heading north tomorrow back home so this will probably be the last time our paths will cross again.

We’ve enjoyed our stay here at Georgetown but the winds are finally blowing from the south and it’s time to move on. Today we’ll make a last trip to the dock to stock up on groceries, do laundry and post this blog. And hopefully tomorrow, bright and early, we’ll weigh anchor and sail off, in company with “Salty Goose”, for points north.

p.s. There will be no more photographs for awhile. Vince fell of the dock at Georgetown—up to his neck in salt water and with camera in hand! Luckily the camera’s the only thing “malfunctioning” as a result of this calamity.