BLACK POINT SETTLEMENT

Our trip south last month from Staniel Cay to Georgetown had taken us 3 days to complete but going BACK, and motor-sailing under strong south-easterly winds with following seas, we managed to make the passage in just under 9 hours! The water was rough and rolly with some 8’ swells but we averaged 6.5 knots and, in company with a convoy of other boats also heading north, I felt no fear. Salty Goose stayed behind in Georgetown choosing to wait for more comfortable sailing conditions. But we felt that we just “had to get out!” and who knew when another weather window would open again. We promised to keep in touch and hopefully will meet up again with them in a future anchorage before we both cross the gulf stream at the end of this month.

In our rush south we had bi-passed many interesting places. But now, going back through those same waters, we had an opportunity to stop off at some of the anchorages we had missed on the way down. The first of these was Black Point—a safe, prosperous and delightful little settlement with less than 300 residents. Although the community is small, it boasts a post office, school, clinic, Laundromat, internet café, grocery store and two great restaurants. All of these establishments can be found within easy walking distance of each other along a smooth paved road which curves around a wide crescent beach. But most of the residents here use electric golf carts to go from place to place.

During the day both men and women can be seen sitting comfortably under the covered verandahs of snug, tidy homes or in shady gardens engaged in what seems to be the chief enterprise of the village—the weaving of palm fronds into hats and baskets. In the early evening children were everywhere—riding bicycles with friends up and down the empty roadway or joyfully playing group games with balls. And when they greeted us with friendly faces as we strolled along on our way to Lorraines Café for dinner, it was hard not to feel a part of one big happy family.

“Lorraines” is a place where everybody stops at least once during a visit to Black Point. This enterprising young woman has created an establishment which offers something for everyone. Her restaurant is warm and welcoming with colourful tablecloths and Bahamian décor. There is a lending library and hot coffee if you just want to relax with a book and a brew and a sunny little room off the side with computer, printer, WiFi hookups, paper and workspace all available at no charge—just leave a donation before you go. She is a marvelous cook and serves up a variety of 3 course meals each night for a flat fee of $16 and her mother makes mouth-watering coconut, cinnamon, and whole wheat breads which can be ordered in advance and taken away. When we arrived cruisers were meeting and greeting each other and Lorraine. They had all obviously been here before and there was a wonderful feeling of camaraderie. Needless to say, we spent a great evening in Black Point and returned happy and sated to a comfortable night at anchor.

The next day however, we awoke to find that wind and waves had picked up filling the harbour with a confused chop. Under these unsettled conditions Vince was reluctant to leave the boat for fear of dragging anchor but I headed off to run a few errands and explore the beaches. Along the way I passed a small cottage with a “Seven Seas Cruising Association” burgee fluttering above the door. And when I stopped to take a closer look, the friendly American who lived there invited me in to meet his wife. We spent over an hour together enjoying a long chat and during that time I learned a great deal about life and conditions on the island. These generous retirees spend 6 months of each year living in the community and giving of their time and resources helping to educate the people here by providing well-needed afternoon and weekend activities for the children and evening sessions for adults.

It was good to see fellow cruisers “giving back” to a community after years of sailing in their waters and receiving so much in the way of Bahamian hospitality and wonderful experiences. And when we return to Black Point next year, we plan to spend longer than two days here, bringing our own resources to the school where we hope to be able to help out in some capacity too. But for now we have to head on out once again and make our way back to Sampsons Cay Marina. Another cold front is on its way—Surprise! Surprise!—and we need to seek shelter from the punishing westerlies which invariably accompany them. But it also means comfort, security, hot showers, great food and new friends so, in a perverse sort of way, we’re beginning to welcome these weather systems!