Man-O-War Cay

Treasure Cay was a HUGE man-made resort community complex--complete with its own international airport. Man O War Cay is it’s polar opposite--a quaint little island with a small village peopled by the descendants of white United Empire Loyalists who arrived here almost 300 years ago. Compared to the other islands we’ve visited, this is a hive of activity where real people do real things. Early in the morning Lola, the village baker, loads up her golf cart (the only vehicles they have here) with fresh bread, sticky buns and hot rolls and everyone gathers round to make a purchase wherever she stops.

The marina is open at 8:00 and boaters drop in for free coffee and a visit. A short stroll down the main road that skirts the harbour brings you to Edwin’s boat yard where dozens of local men can be seen sanding, painting and building boats--as their fathers and grandfathers have done before them for as long as anyone can remember. The main street ends at a charming little cottage selling custom canvas bags. Outside, a wide wooden porch with tubs of red flowers completely surrounds this establishment. Inside, is a hive of activity as half a dozen women sit at their individual stations, comfortably chatting with one another over the hum of whirring sewing machines. Everywhere you look, lining walls from floor to ceiling and piled high on tables are thousands of canvas bags. They come in all shapes, sizes and colours and provide a handsome income for the industrious women who turn them out. There is a beauty salon in “town” where everyone goes to get their hair cut, two well stocked grocery stores, a couple of boutiques with lovely merchandise, an ice cream parlour, waterside restaurant, two banks, a post office and 3 churches to provide for the spiritual needs of the 300 inhabitants. There are also NO liquor stores. This is a “dry” island. Alcohol and cigarettes are not for sale here and none of the locals smoke. I’m told that the odd resident may keep a bottle (purchased off-island of course) under the bed, but its “all about the children” they say.

The inhabitants of Man O War Cay are the most remarkable group people we’ve ever met anywhere. They all look alike--a little like Santa’s elves--with twinkling eyes, roundish faces and forms, and weathered faces that glow with happiness. Most of their homes are centrally located and clustered around the harbor and little business establishments that serve their community. To the north and south of “town” the concrete road of the “Queens Highway” becomes little more than a sandy trail stretching out for several miles to each of the far ends of the cay. On both sides there is water--the wild Atlantic to the east and soft Sea of Abaco to the west. And running off the sand trail, on either side, up and down the island, are carefully groomed little paths--winding through beautiful foliage and ending at the porches of little pastel coloured cottages--each of which overlooks some aspect of the water below. These are the dwellings of the off-islanders. They are owned primarily by wealthy Americans and Englishmen who visit for only a few weeks or months of the year. Many are available for rent--if you know who to ask--but most remain vacant for much of the year. For a fee, local caretakers keep an eye on these properties and maintain the cottages and grounds in pristine condition. Each morning a ferry crosses over to Man O War Cay from the mainland at Marsh Harbour bringing Haitian gardeners who trim hedges, prune trees, rake up and dispose of debris and keep the areas of island where cottages are located looking like pages taken from “house and garden” magazine. The people that we HAVE met who live in or rent these 2nd homes are as genuinely nice as the locals themselves. And although we have seen islands with much lovelier beaches, we have never actually enjoyed ourselves as much as we have being here.

This however is probably also because of the good times we have had with “Legacy” who are also here. For the past week we have enjoyed their company with long walks on that wonderful trail that winds past the cottages, beachcombing along the sand and coral outcroppings, enjoying dinners together aboard their boat or ours, playing afternoon cards, and day tripping by dinghy to explore the delights of neighbouring islands. We were so lucky to run into them once again and have really enjoyed their company.

And as for the malfunctions on our boat, we found that everything was caused by ONE broken wire! After hours of crawling under the deck, taking switches apart, along with parts of the engine, and reading pages and pages of manuals, it ended up being and easy, inexpensive fix. But now the head has backed up once again and, as I speak, Vince is in the process of dismantling THAT! If it’s not one thing it’s another. And while he works on that horrible, smelly job, I may just get myself out of here and go over to enjoy a morning coffee with Pam aboard the luxurious “Legacy.” What a life!