SOUTH TO GEORGETOWN NC

This past week has been the anti-thesis to the previous one. Skies have been sunny, winds have been light and both days and night warm and comfortable. It’s beginning to feel like summer all over again and we are happy to be this far south so soon. Our experiences on this leg of the journey have been varied. The first night out from New Bern was spent in a beautiful protected anchorage just off Adams Creek surrounded by trees and in the company of 9 other boats. We awoke to fog which quickly burned off allowing us to safely make the trip to Swansboro where we tied up for the night. This little village is one of our favourite stops. Here we met up with another Canadian boat--”Zest 2” from Toronto and spent a pleasant evening aboard their vessel going over charts and, since it was their first trip to the Bahamas, suggesting where they might go.

Vince and I love eating our breakfasts “out” whenever possible and so bright and early the next morning we set off for “Yana’s Diner.” We left the boat just before 7:00am. The streets of the little town were deserted and it was still dark. But we could see the lights on at Yana’s and hoped she would open early for us. We couldn’t believe our eyes when we reached her door. The place was crowded with locals, 60’s music was playing and there was a real party atmosphere with everyone “meeting and greeting” and making the rounds to each other’s tables. Apparently it’s like this every morning. We spoke to one elderly patron--a Miss Rose--who told us if she didn’t show up, people would worry and stop by. If she was sick, Yana would send breakfast over, free of charge. This is a village where everyone knows everyone else and they all look out for each other.

After breakfast we cast off our lines and made the long trip to Wrightsville Beach, arriving shortly after 5:00. It was another glorious day and we found two friends waiting in the harbour. One boat belonged to a couple we had befriended at Swansboro and the other was from Hamilton! Both couples dinghied over to greet us and to visit but we were very tired from our long journey and turned in early.

The next day we decided to leave the ICW for a short side trip to Bald Head Island. Two upscale cruising couples had suggested to check this place out as it had been highly recommended to them by their friends. And so we did--and it was quite an experience. Bald Head Island is to the “south” what Martha’s Vineyard is to the “north.” A very exclusive enclave for the rich. The island is two miles from the mainland and only accessible by boat. The only point of entry for the entire island is through a small channel into the Bald Head Island Marina and Yacht Basin and access is strictly controlled. Upon checking in we were issued with “passes” which would allow us “entree” to various island venues. Without these, we would be denied access and asked to leave. The island itself is about 3 miles across with 17 miles of beaches. There are marshlands, forested areas, sand dunes and golf courses. A tennis club, sailing clubs, croquet club, and swimming pool at a “members only” country club. To take part in any of the activities you must be a “club member” pay dues, and follow strict dress codes. The croquet club for example takes itself very seriously and everyone must dress in regulation “whites.” There were probably over 1,000 homes on the island--each beautifully designed in a variety of architectural styles. We saw a notice board with real estate offerings--but no prices listed. It would have been considered in bad taste to do so and in any event, on this island, if you have to ask the price, you probably couldn’t afford it. We were told that we could in fact make an appointment with the real estate branch of Bald Head to have a tour of the island and homes “on offer” but in order to do so we’d have to meet their criteria. Since one of these was a yearly income of in excess of $150,000 US we were “out of luck” as our retirement pensions are nowhere near that figure. Que Sera! Other interesting facts about the island include the following. No cars are allowed. Everyone has an electric golf cart or bicycles. And a regular ferry service brings people to and from the Island every half hour. There is a small shopping area in the centre of the island with an upscale grocery, hardware store, pharmacy, gift shop, ice cream parlour and several restaurants. The entire island is beautifully manicured and maintained by a staff of hundreds. It’s like one enormous condominium complex and the lucky inhabitants do not have to lift a finger. They just come and go as they like, join the various clubs and interest groups and have a myriad of social activities organized for them to attend all year long. The weekly activity sheet that I read included workshops in “Filligree Jewelry Making” @ $50. and “Plein Air Painting” @ $100 plus the cost of materials. For the gentlemen there was a 3 day sailing program @ $650. for both beginners and experienced yachtsmen. There were also special childrens programs, dances and a Halloween party organized. etc. etc. While at Bald Head Island we walked along the beaches, talked to some of the friendly inhabitants and strolled through residential areas admiring the architecture. But there was something sterile about the place and we couldn’t imagine ourselves ever living there because it all seemed so artificial and temporary. It seemed to be a place you’d fly into for a season--have instant acceptance, fun and then leave. And I guess that’s perhaps how some people like to live their lives--jet setting from one locale to another. Personally however, I think I’d prefer something with more of a feeling of permanence and stability. Although we passed many people coming and going in their little electric cars, most of the homes seemed to be empty. Perhaps we experienced the feeling of isolation because we didn’t belong there and possibly the people that are there on a permanent basis all know each other through the various clubs and activities. But that’s something we’ll never know.

After we left Bald Head Island, we returned to the waterway and headed towards Myrtle Beach. This time of the year is a very active one for the fishing community and hundreds of people were out in little boats crowded along the ICW trolling for fish. It made for very harrowing cruising conditions as all of the boats heading south tried to stay in the very narrow confines of the channel and avoid hitting the fishermen at the same time. At one point we found ourselves motoring along in company with 3 other boats but as we dodged the fishermen, two of them got their props tangled in fishing nets which had been illegally strung out across the channel. Boat US had to be called in to tow one of the boats to a marina where a diver was hired to try to clear the mess out of the prop and rudder. $$$ And it so easily could’ve been us since we were all travelling along the same route within mere yards of one another!

Today we entered our favourite stretch of the waterway--the Waccamaw River system of South Carolina. Here the narrow very deep Waccamaw meanders for miles through beautiful forests. There is no need to worry about depths and we can just sit back and enjoy the gorgeous scenery as the current pulls us on towards Georgetown. After a great morning of cruising under sunny skies we tied up to the dock at Bucksport Plantation Marina, deep in the Waccamaw woods. Here we enjoyed a delicious lunch and decided to stop for the day when we heard that gospel singers would be coming over later that afternoon to record a CD right there on the premises. After a nap on the boat, we experienced what only can be called “Christian Karioake” out on the marinas dock. The music was wonderful--full of life and the locales who had come out to listen made us feel right at home--even coming over to our table to welcome us and sit for a spell. One gentleman in particular stayed and talked for over an hour, explaining to us the history of the place and then rambling off about southern confederate history in general. And with his rich southern accent, the music in the backgound, the warm balmy breeze and breathtaking scenery, all in all it was a simply glorious experience. Tomorrow, we’ll continue winding our way slowly through the Waccamaw Wilderness and should find ourselves in the lovely snug anchorage at the edge of “Olde Georgetown” about noon. We hope to spend a few days there before heading off to Charleston--only two days away.