BIMINI

My greatest discovery was Bimini”—Ernest “papa” Hemmingway

Although we had been led to believe that there was really nothing worth seeing in Bimini, I for one would have to disagree. Like Hemmingway, we found this island to be a delightful place. We were fortunate that the storm blew us into this little cay enabling us to spend almost a week relaxing and savouring this last taste of the Bahamas.

Bimini is actually two islands with most of the “action” taking place at Alicetown located at the southern tip of the northern cay. A narrow paved road lined with a variety of colourful one-roomed “establishments” runs through the centre of this village. The main mode of transportation is by golf carts which are readily available for rent and the people who greet you along the street are among the friendliest that we encountered anywhere in the Bahamas.

Beyond the shops on the western side of the street, trails run off at right angles to a wide strand of powdery sand that stretches along the entire length of the island. Sunsets here are magnificent and every day lovely shells and corals are washed ashore. On the eastern side of town a long protected channel running parallel to the main drag is lined with small marinas and filled with boats. This is where all of the fishing activity takes place with gleaming yachts arriving daily from Miami to troll for blue marlin and other big game fish.

Since we were “staging our departure” at Bimini, our dinghy was lashed firmly onto the bow of our boat. We regretted that it was unavailable to us as there were many interesting coves, islands and condo developments sprinkled across the islands that were accessible only by shallow draft vessels. We did however manage to visit a very interesting “Shark Research Station” manned by young volunteers studying the social habits and genetics of lemon sharks. It was fascinating to see the work being done here and to actually get “up close and personal” with baby sharks.

The undisputed “Best of Bimini” however has got to be the “Bimini Big Game Resort and Marina” which has been a haven for sportsmen, politicians, and celebrities from around the world since 1937. This was where we moored OUR boat and, once here, we were reluctant ever to leave. This marina was our absolute favourite since leaving Canada over 8 months ago. A beautiful free-form swimming pool is the crown jewel of this exquisite place. It is surrounded by a large meandering red-bricked terrace and lined with over-sized padded teak lounge chairs. Tables, umbrellas and dozens of crimson bougainvilla plants bursting from enormous clay pots are scattered across the terrace and the entire area is rimmed by a low curving limestone wall with colourful tropical foliage spilling over its edge.

One side of the terrace opens onto a funky restaurant/bar with a breathtaking view of turquoise waters dotted by distant islands. This restaurant has been in existence for over 70 years! It’s walls are lined with a fascinating collection of photographs recording various exploits of guests spanning decades of visits. The food here is delicious. The drinks are cold. And the ambience of this place is unsurpassed. After spending a morning exploring the beaches or visiting with friends, it was a treat to return to this oasis of beauty and tranquility and enjoy siesta in the dappled sunlight around the pool with a novel in one had and drink in the other. And I’m glad that our last Bahamian “kick at the can” was here.

We will be sad to leave the Bahamas. Every day has been an adventure and our experiences here have been as incredible and as varied as the people that we’ve met along the way. This will be our last Bahamian entry. Tomorrow morning we’ll leave in a convoy with ten other boats for Lake Worth and the U.S.of A. The weather window has opened yet once again. But this time as we pass through, it will be taking us away from one world and back to another.