CAMBRIDGE CAY part 2

Just before a cold front arrives in the Exumas, the winds die down and the seas flatten. This is what is known as “the calm before the storm.” Yesterday was just such a day and we took full advantage of the wonderful conditions to snorkel in still waters and enjoy a pleasant afternoon relaxing on a perfect beach.

We set off to our first snorkeling destination—Rocky Dundas—in company with Marg and Joe from the boat “Aquavit.” After tying up to dinghy buoys provided by the park for this purpose, we donned our gear and plunged into the refreshing water. Beneath its surface beautiful fan corals in a variety of lovely colours waved gracefully in the mild current for as far as the eye could see. Several other species of coral were also to be found at this location including an enormous staghorn that was well over 8’ in diameter. Rocky Dundas is actually a very large rocky islet that rises up out of the sea in a relatively shallow area of the cut. Apart from the extensive coral field that grows out from its perimeter, an additional feature of interest here is a lovely cavern which is easily accessible from the dinghy buoys. The walls of this cavern soar upward for over fifty feet towards a large opening in the domed ceiling which permits light to flood into its interior. Massive staligmites and staligtites encircle the caverns pool and it is an awe-inspiring experience to be inside.

After Rocky Dundas we climbed back in the dinghy, revved up its engine, and zoomed off—skimming the shining surface of incredibly smooth turquoise waters—as we made our way towards our 2nd snorkeling stop—The Coral Gardens, just off the southern tip of Cambridge Cay. We were a little disappointed to discover that much of the coral had died off in this area but with colourful reef fish more varied and prolific here than at rocky Dundas, snorkeling was altogether different and equally rewarding..

After returning to the boat for lunch and siesta, we decided to set off a little later to explore Cambridge Cay itself. Leaving the dinghy on a beautiful crescent of dazzling beach, we made our way on foot along a winding path which crossed over to the other side of the island. Once there we were amazed to find the enormous luxury yacht “Star Ship,” complete with helicopter pad and chopper anchored just off shore. A handful of beach chairs and umbrellas had been set up upon a wide stretch of soft sand, the guests had recently departed, and a beach boy had been left to clean up the luncheon things. He introduced himself to us as a Canadian from Bowmanville who had joined the crew of “Star Ship” on a spur of the moment impulse while visiting a friend vacationing on St. Maartin. He had been working aboard the vessel for a little over 4 months now and was having the time of his life cruising from one Caribbean island to the other and rubbing elbows with the rich and privileged. He told us that the yacht had costs its owner over 25 million dollars. It took 10,000 gallons of fuel to “fill ‘er up” and it could be charted out by small groups of 10 guests at time for a whopping $120,000. (yes, 4 zeros) per week!

As we retraced our steps back to the beach on the other side of the island wondering who could possibly afford such a lavish one week holiday, we were surprised to find the people who had charted this yacht actually frolicking in the surf around OUR dinghy! It was a single family accompanied by support crew from “Star Ship.” In heavily accented English they apologized for intruding upon the privacy of our beach, readily initiated small talk and joked about “looking after our dinghy” in our absence. We spent a delightful time with them but when we learned they had come from Columbia we couldn’t help but wonder WHO these people actually were. Quite possibly we had just spent the afternoon lolling about on the beach in company with either an important head of state or a Columbian drug lord and his family. And we’ll never know which.