GEORGETOWN and STOCKING ISLAND

This is an absolutely wonderful place to be and once here its easy to understand why so many sailors make the trek year after year. It’s about as perfect as a place can get.

Elizabeth Harbour itself is shaped like a very long “U”. As you enter through the opening in the north, the extensive land mass of “Great Exuma” stretches for almost 30 miles along the harbours western side. And it is here, almost at the end of the “U” that Georgetown itself—with its well-stocked grocery store and other essential services, is actually located. On the other side of Elizabeth Harbour, beautiful “Stocking Island” separates the wild Atlantic waves from the quiet inner bay. This exquisite island forms the eastern leg of the harbours “U” and is where hundreds of boats choose to anchor, safely sheltered from the prevailing NE winds. A collection of rocky islets, coral reefs and sandbars form the base of the harbours “U” where good snorkeling is to be found.

Stocking Island with its gorgeous ivory beaches stretches for over 5 miles in a north-south direction along the eastern edge of the harbour. A long low hill covered with lush tropical foliage and threaded with well-worn walking trails runs from one end of the island to the other, allowing hikers to easily cross up and over or to enjoy the magnificent vistas in all directions by walking along its ridge. Halfway down the length of Stocking Island, a series of small coves break into its western shoreline. These completely sheltered places are the most coveted anchorages and fill up early with boats here for the season. This area is also the location of “Volleyball Beach”—the physical and social centre of the islands sailing community and where THE quintessential beach bar “Chat ‘n Chill” serves up BBQ chicken & ribs, fish & chips, hamburgers and a wicked mango daiquiri. Dozens of colourful Muskoka chairs and beach umbrellas are strung out along the shoreline here where the shallow turquoise water laps up against seven acres of soft sugar sand. Beyond the sunny beach tall tropical pines waving in the breeze, shade and shelter yet even more Muskoka chairs, hammocks, and a collection of long wooden tables and benches were groups of boaters meet to play scrabble, majong, dominoes, and card games or simply to enjoy a drink with friends. Three volleyball courts round out the scene and there seems to be always a game in progress.

In addition to “Chat ‘n Chill”, Volleyball Beach is also home to “St Francis Resort”—a small establishment catering to the cruising crowd with its restaurant, bar, rooms and conference facilities. Each evening something different is on offer. We’ve been here less than a week but since arriving there’s already been a 60’s dance, Superbowl party, Texas “hold ‘em” night, Polynesian Evening and Trivial Pursuit competition! Not surprisingly, with so much to do here, more than 100 boats are anchored just off this beach. But for those wishing a break from social activities or preferring a more isolated tropical location, there are two other popular anchorages where boats can be found.

To the north, “Hamburger Beach—also known as Monument Beach—offers its own sandy shoreline and a popular BBQ take-away establishment. And just around its corner its rumoured that there is a nudist beach for boaters so inclined. To the south, Sand Dollar Beach offers a long stretch of powdery sand and miles of shallow knee-deep water. This is a great place to hang out in splendid isolation and is also the location of weekly bon-fires and pot-luck parties. We are anchored here. And whenever we feel the need for social interaction its an easy dinghy ride over to “Chat ‘n Chill” or across the bay and into town for shopping. But for day-to-day living, we prefer to be surrounded by nature rather than other boaters. A few of our like-minded friends have also chosen to anchor here so we certainly do not lack for the company and security of others.

As an aside, an interesting observation is the fact that among the 200plus boats at anchor here there are few trawlers and virtually NO powerboats! Perhaps this is because only self-sustaining boats can remain here for any length of time. There are no marinas with their attendant electrical hook-ups which powerboats tend to rely on in order to remain fully functional. Sailboats here keep their batteries fully charged and systems humming with wind and solar generators. Whatever the reason, we’re very glad that the “big boys” have chosen to pass this place by. There are enough boats here now as it is. And any more would detract from the charm and beauty of this absolutely delightful place.