Saturday, January 19, 2008

Highbourne Cay

Throughout the evening winds picked up as a mild front passed overhead. By morning they had shifted to the SE and the boat was rolling uncomfortably in choppy swells. And at 20 knots, in semi-exposed conditions we were feeling a little alarmed. Saturdays forecast was for a very strong front with winds gusting to over 30knots. We HAD to find protection. But where to go? We could see Voyageur pulling up her anchor in preparation for the 40 mile sail to Cambridge Cay. But in unsettled conditions and waves on the nose Vince was reluctant to go this route. What if something should go wrong and we were unable to make the passage before dark? Another option was Normans Cay—our original choice. But the chatter on 16 indicated that his anchorage was already crowded with 20 boats at anchor in the cut. Should more arrive today, would there even be room for us? And what if a vessel should “drag” when the wind clocked round? With so many boats, tenuous holding and a strong current, if it did, it would almost certainly pick up other rodes and possibly tangle boats together at night and in the worst of weather! Not a pleasant prospect. The only other alternative was Highbourn Cay Marina. This class A harbour offered safety and a host of creature comforts. And although it was expensive, it was certainly cheaper that the “deductible” on our boat and for the next few days would afford us peace of mind and fun instead of worry and uncertainty. So, as soon as the sun was high enough in the sky for us to see the shoals and shallows, we made our way into the calm waters of its sheltered harbour.

What an excellent choice this turned out to be! Once securely tied up we set off to explore this beautiful island and spent a wonderful afternoon together strolling the isolated mile-long beach picking up shells and corals along the way. When several small squalls passed overhead we ran for shelter under a tropical pine, very happy to be here on a pretty beach rather than “out there” in an open boat. Highbourne Cay is privately owned and caters to upscale mega yachts. As such it is somewhat isolated with completely deserted and absolutely exquisite beaches scattered around the island for its privileged clientele to enjoy. At the marina itself however every convenience is available—at a price. Thick white sand, turquoise waters, and breathtaking vistas are steps away from the boats. There is an attractive office/grocery store/gift shop complex which is stocked with everything you could possible need and caterers bringing freshly baked bread and island delicacies to your boat are only a VHF call away. In the evenings when the fishermen return with their catch, a large group of sharks gather at the end of the dock, waiting for scraps as fish are gutted. And it is a little unnerving to be standing on the unprotected deck with jaws snapping in the waters just a few feet away.

It is now Friday, Jan.19th and we are about to go for a swim and loll about the beach. A little yellow bird flew into the boat and alighted onto a cushion not far from where I’m typing. It’s all so delightful! Tomorrow night the marina is fully booked with yachts arriving from Miami and there will be a big island Bar-B-Q. We’re beginning to feel a little guilty when we think of the other sailors missing all of this and wonder if we should be out there with them. But this is “our” retirement and we’re doing it “our way.” And if it means dropping out of the pack for a few days of pampering in potentially inclement weather—so be it. The latest weather update is pushing the front off now until Monday—so I guess that means we’ll have to “put up” with luxury living just a little bit longer, but I think we’ll manage just fine.

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