Saturday, January 19, 2008

Allans Cay

We left Nassau late Monday morning, Jan.13th after coffee and muffins aboard Second Chance. The passage across the Yellow Banks was calm and there were less than half a dozen coral heads to dodge before we reached Allans Cay on the other side. As we rounded an island and entered the cut the scene was magical. A sprinkling of islands encircled turquoise waters with a dozen boats bobbing at anchor. On a neighbouring beach we could see a large colony of iguanas lounging in the sand and cruisers strolling through the surf. But despite the peace and tranquility of this place, anchoring was anything but. All of the best places had already been taken and when we did finally manage to find a suitable location between two other boats, we were rudely told to “move on” by one of them who felt that we were going to be too close. After several fruitless attempts at a variety of unsuitable spots we eventually managed to set two hooks Bahamian style into deeper water at the north end of the cut but were exposed directly to the ocean. We spent a sleepless night in rolling water with strong currents but the anchors held. And we resolved to move to a more ideal location the next day should boats decide to move out. The only bright spot in this otherwise frustrating evening was the presence of Second Chance who had managed to make the crossing over to Allans later in the day.

The next morning they dinghied over to our boat and we set off together to explore the islands. As soon as we set foot on the beach iguanas ran over to greet us hoping that we’d brought them something to eat. Although signs urge visitors not to feed these creatures, everyone does. We had a few leaves of lettuce and a handful of grapes which they greatly appreciated and gobbled down with relish. On one island we found a narrow path leading to the other side. Here we were surprised to find a young couple in a sheltered cove—he sporting bathing trunks and she completely naked! They seemed oblivious to our presence and made no attempt whatsoever to cover up. Vivien and I had the decency to look away and I kept wishing that Vince would tear his gaze away and offer them some privacy. No chance! That evening we were invited for “sun-downers” aboard Second Chance and, having moved the boat earlier in the day, enjoyed a comfortable night in safe surroundings.

The next morning we met with Chris and Vivien aboard Fortnight for coffee and muffins to look at weather forecasts and discuss sailing strategies. A strong cold front was expected to arrive in our area over the weekend and all boats were advised to seek refuge from the predicted 30knot winds. Second Chance was heading off to Normans Pond—a hurricane hole with a shallow intricate entrance which we would be unable to negotiate. But with this weather system still a few days away there was still time for us to explore our own options. At 11:00am we pulled up our anchors and set sail for Highbourne Cay, the next island in the chain. We anchored just offshore in a protected area and dinghied in together through the cut to the marina. Here we provisioned and topped up with fuel before saying goodbye to our friends who were heading off to Normans. It was now too late for us to go anywhere so we decided to spend the night right where we were. Later that afternoon Brian and Cathy aboard “Voyageur”(Mahones Bay NS) dinghied over for a visit and informed us that they would be heading off for Cambridge Cay early the next morning. “Salty Goose” was already there and we were very tempted to head that way ourselves but the voyage was long and it would mean passing up the opportunity to visit many other interesting islands along the way. And much as we enjoy the company and relative safety of sailing with other boats, we don’t want to rush this trip and miss out on our own explorations simply to “catch up” with others. Tomorrow there will still be time to decide what to do and where to go.

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