CHESAPEAKE week 4

Among the many advantages of remaining in one location for an extended period of time is the opportunity to get off the boat and explore places of interest in the area. This week we did just that, leasing a car for 4 days and setting off for Williamsburg 150 miles away.

As we moved away from the water and began traveling through the Maryland and Virginian landscape we noticed marked changes. Semi-tropical plants are in evidence everywhere. There are large trees filled with clusters of red flowers (flame trees?) and smaller ones covered with what look like lilac blossoms. Foundation plantings include small palm “bushes” and colourful perennial beds are still in full flower. A strange sight is to see Magnolia trees going to seed. At this time of year they are covered with large green pods resembling large pine cones studded with dozens of flat, oval, red seeds. Very peculiar! The soil is also unusual. On the surface it appears pale beige, but areas that have been recently excavated or freshly dug reveal a deep subsoil of bright yellow ochre. Along the roadsides where we would expect to find gravel, here there are millions of small rounded pebbles. These beautiful stones seem to be made of quartz and are coloured in soft honey/butter tones—presumably stained that way by the ochre earth. Unpaved walks and driveways are normally filled with these pebbles but it’s not unusual to also find them also covered with crushed oyster shells. Another surprise was to be told that there are no rocks in this part of Virginia—only thick deposits of soil!

The Americans are very good at preserving their historical treasures and creating appropriate settings with which to surround them. Williamsburg was a case in point. No sooner had we crossed over the bridge to Yorktown than we found ourselves on the Colonial Pkwy and being literally transported from a 20th century freeway back into an 18th century landscape. For over ten miles the pseudo-cobbled road led us through mature Carolinian forest, skirting the rivers edge and winding under ancient arched bridges. At the visitors centre on the edge of “towne” our Williamsburg experience began with a movie about a fictional family living here in 1776. It was an excellent introduction to the events leading up to the revolution and helped us to better understand what we would see over the next few days as various “dramas” unfolded in the village. When the movie ended, the door to the exit opened onto a cobbled path leading directly onto the street where the film had been made. Here dozens of costumed “inhabitants” could be seen working at various occupations, strolling along the sidewalks and stopping occasionally to engage us in conversation with them. For 2 days we became a part of the village chatting with blacksmiths, cooks and wigmakers about their life in 18th century Williamsburg and watching little historical “dramas” which were constantly being re-enacted by various townspeople everywhere along the main street. One of the most memorable activities we took part in was spending a morning with the “slaves” on the plantation at the edge of town. The squalid conditions were truly appalling and I couldn’t imagine spending a lifetime living in those conditions.

When we finally left to return to the Solomons, instead of traveling directly home, we took a detour to Stratford Hall—the birthplace of Robert E. Lee. This magnificent plantation was definitely worth the visit and, if we weren’t so tired , we would love to have spent more time here. As it was however, we were all “historied out” and anxious to get back to the comforts of the marina. Arriving back at the boat we were greeted by Howard and Debra Lerner, fellow sailors we had met originally in Georgetown, and who had just arrived in the Solomons from St. Michaels. Since we hadn’t been in touch with them for over a month, we had a lot to catch up on and are looking forward to spending some time with them over the next few days.