Erie Canal West part 2

After Newark, the canal changes character. As it disappears into the Seneca and Oneida rivers which feed the Finger Lakes it becomes part of the natural landscape, marked only with red and green buoys at occasional intervals. The waters here are wider and fresher. Gone are the local townspeople hiking and biking along the cultivated path connecting the settled and sleepy villages of the previous stretch. In its place is a landscape reminiscent of the Muskokas—but without the massive rocks, coves, and scallopy bays which make the Canadian northland so special.

This heavily wooded area is flat and the banks of the water are lined with summer homes. Most of these are old family cottages but increasingly we came across enclaves of new “monster” homes—permanent residences of well-heeled retirees or wealthy young families wanting to live on water and willing to commute to jobs in the Syracuse area. Boats and people are everywhere, obviously on vacation and having fun. The area around Baldwinsville is especially active with regular rock concerts held in its new bandshell on weekends.

The western section of the Erie Canal ends at Oneida Lake. This open body of water is 20-plus miles across, very shallow and dotted with cottages along the shore. There is a steady stream of boats crossing east-west through channel markers and clusters of “fishing-friends” in little open boats scattered periodically at favourite spots across the lake. Oneida has a reputation for dense fog and a short steep chop but we were lucky to have a weather window when we arrived. At first light Sunday morning we made the crossing under clear skies and rippling water to Sylvan Beach on the eastern shore.