Wednesday, December 5, 2012

BACK TO BOAT HARBOUR


On Thursday November 22nd, Vince and I joined “Diva,” “Legacy,” Duetto,” “Argonaut,” and “Tai Chi” for cocktails followed by Thanksgiving Dinner at the Green Turtle Club.  None of us chose traditional “turkey.”  Instead, we all opted for a lobster dish of one sort or another followed by pecan or pumpkin pie--another memorable meal in a wonderful place that we all gave “thanks” for.

The next morning however, it was still too windy to attempt to cross around the “Whale.”  November of 2012 has exhibited completely uncharacteristic weather patterns.  After the hurricane which hit the Bahamas quite late in the season, there have only really been 2 opportunities to comfortably cross the gulf stream to these islands. And temperatures here have been lower than usual--60’s-70’s--with brisk winds adding an additional “chill factor.” Many days have been cloudy with sudden squalls.  Not great vacationing weather.  But still better than staying home.  And cooler temperatures making sleeping on board extremely pleasant. So, over the next few days we continued our regime of socializing, walking the beaches and enjoying breakfast “out” until finally, on Monday the 26th, conditions were acceptable for the “Whale” passage.

We were 2nd in a convoy of 5 boats which left White Sound on the rising tide just after dawn.  There was virtually no wind, swells were 4’- 7’ and it was a very comfortable crossing.  Once over to the other side, we made our way to “Spoil Island” where Legacy was already anchored and collecting shells on the beach.  The sun shone brightly, the water was crystal clear, and we spent a blissful day both on the beach and rocking at anchor enjoying the gorgeous scenery over lunch.  Later in the afternoon we followed Legacy over to Fishers Bay at Guana Cay where we spent the night.

The next morning we were up bright and early to walk the beach and were absolutely shocked to see the changes brought about by the hurricane.  A huge swathe of sand cliff had been swept away for over a mile south of Nippers, and spread along into the surf creating a new landscape of completely flat beach--triple the size it once was!  Million dollar homes are now perched high above the Atlantic at the very edge of the newly formed cliff and all of the wooden stairs that used to connect them to the beach have been swept away.  Before the beach sloped so that at high tide half of the sand on the steep side always remained exposed and a buffer for the water.  Now, with the new “flat” beach, water laps right up to the base of the cliff at high tide.  And the next storm will surely bring down even more of the cliff and eventually the houses that are now sitting perilously close to its edge.  On the up-side, the beach is drop-dead gorgeous and now, for the first time ever, it’s possible to find shells here.

We met up with Pam, Ron, and their boat guest Bill from Legacy while returning to Nippers and played a few games of Bocci Ball with them before returning to our boats.  Later that evening we dinghyed over to Legacy where we enjoyed dinner together.  But the next morning we parted ways.  Another big blow was expected which they planned to sit out at Treasure Cay, while we opted to make our way to our slip at Boat Harbour and meet up with our RMHYC friends.  We tied up here mid-morning--just ahead of the cold front. Only about a dozen boats had made it in so far this season but we received a warm welcome and it felt good to be back at our “Winter Home” once again.

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