Winter Season 2011-2012

When Vince and I first retired and set off aboard our sailboat “Fortnight” we envisioned a voyage around the world--or at the very least explorations throughout the Caribbean. But after venturing out into the Atlantic and experiencing both personally and vicariously the very perilous conditions that exist “out there,” we modified our plans considerably.

During our first two seasons we sailed extensively throughout the central and southern Bahamas. The weather in this part of the islands was always wonderful with sunny skies and balmy breezes. Deserted beaches were dazzlingly bright and frequently littered with lovely shells. Brilliantly blue waters were always warm and anchorages incredibly scenic. But it was not ALL perfection in paradise. In this part of the Bahamas one is extremely vulnerable to all kinds of danger and unimaginable inconvenience--especially if sailing alone and without a “buddy boat.” Should you experience a medical emergency offshore or in an isolated area (which is where you find yourself 90% of the time) you are “out of luck!” No rescue boat will come to your aid and there are no hospitals/medical facilities. With “one man down” on a two person boat, the survivor must be able to render aid to the injured party, try to contact “someone out there” for help and sail the boat to a location where an airlift out can be effected--all at the same time! Usually this is many hours or even days away--if accessible at all--because you can only sail when weather and wind conditions are right. We encountered many cruisers who had experienced horrendous accidents, suffering excruciating pain--sometimes for days before they could receive medical aid. One friend had a thumb torn off his hand, another had flesh stripped off an entire finger, there was a detached retina many broken bones, torn ligaments and dislocations. At one anchorage, we were there when a cruiser actually died. In this case when the Bahamian police--who were on the most populated island only 2 miles away were summoned--they replied with “sorry, we can’t do anything--we don’t have a boat to get to you. Goodbye and good luck.”

When the weather kicks up off shore or in isolated places (as it frequently does) if you can’t find adequate shelter you can experience disaster. Several people we both met and actually sailed with can vouch for this first hand. One friend had his boat completely destroyed when it went aground on a reef. And several others got caught out in bad weather with dinghys torn off their hoists, hull punctures, and dismasting.

Another couple had their boat boarded by “undesirables” while in the Ragged Islands south of Long Island and although left alive, were subjected to unspeakable sexual humiliations which were photographed by the laughing intruders. No thank you!

We were lucky and careful enough to not have experienced ANY of the above while sailing in these waters but we WERE there when propane in these islands ran out and cruisers were stranded--without any way to cook--for 3 weeks until supplies were brought in. Fresh food is not always available in these parts and when it is, and you need it, one often has to dinghy through rough water to get it--always getting soaked in the process. And it’s the same for laundering clothes. A wet ride in and back to a laundromat when and if you’re lucky enough to find one. Communications can also be a nightmare, with only a few outposts making internet connections possible with long lineups or poor connections when and if they are found. Despite all of the above however, we felt that the “paradise” we DID experience was worth the occasional inconveniences and risks. Until, that is, we found the Abacos!

The Abaco Islands have everything the Southern and Central Bahamas has WITHOUT the risk and inconvenience! The only thing it lacks is guaranteed hot weather. Here we average temperatures in the 70’s with some overcast and rainy spells. BUT here at Boat Harbour--where we are spending this season--we are 10 minutes away from an international airport, and within walking distance of medical and dental clinics, great restaurants, and a huge supermarket. We have a heated free-form swimming pool, laundry, luxurious bathing facilities, wifi and cable TV at our slip, a wide range of activities, and lots of friendly, interesting fellow cruisers from all walks of life slip-side at the same marina.

We can stay here when the weather kicks up or we need a “social fix” or sail away to deserted islands, snorkelling, shelling, fishing, either alone or with others whenever we feel like it--only a few hours away--and return to the comforts of our “club” and slip that same day--or not. For this reason there will be no “blog” as such this year. We are not voyaging. We are staying put more or less and so there is nothing earth shattering to write about. No new discoveries, no “scary” sailing experiences, no “revelations/opinions.” Just good times with good friends. Same old, same old. And speaking of “old,” we are beginning to realize that now, as we are getting “old” (65 now and counting), we have entered a phase of our life when comfort and happiness, for us, is what it’s all about. And we certainly have more than our fair share of that here, at Boat Harbour, in the Bahamas.