April in the Abacos - week 2

Vince had repaired the refrigeration pump and all systems once again were “tickety-boo” we headed north to the sheltered anchorage just off Matt Lowes Cay where we planned to wait for the next high tide that would allow us to enter the harbour at Once Hopetown. The anchorage at Matt Lowes has excellent holding in all directions except west and north. It is extremely picturesque with small islets dotting its eastern edge and is an excellent place for swimming off the boat. Water here is a stunning shade of turquoise with a consistent 7-8’ depth over sand. Cruisers here find themselves in a lovely secluded anchorage with easy access to Marsh Harbour, Hopetown, Man O War Cay and Boat Harbour about an hours sail away. The only real disadvantage of this place is that one can’t go ashore. Matt Lowes Cay itself is a private island. Its beaches are absolutely gorgeous and although it has always seemed unoccupied when we have been here we have seen caretakers patrolling the grounds in electric carts. Tantalizing though it was, we were unwilling to risk humiliation at being caught trespassing and so remained aboard. Maybe next time here we’ll live dangerously and take that chance.

Just after noon on April 12th we raised our anchor and set sail for Hopetown, planning to ease our way into the harbour on a rising tide. Our boat Fortnight draws 6’ and the water at Hopetowns entrance is only 5’ at MLW and so we DO have to time this well. And we did--manoeuvring past the dozens of boats tied up to mooring balls and easing into our sip at Hopetown Marina where we spent the next 4 days.

HOPETOWN

Everyone we’ve ever met who’s been to the Abacos raves about Hopetown. And so we decided to leave the best for last and spend a month here before heading home. But it was not at all what we had expected and for us at least, 4 days was more than enough time to spend here.

Hopetown is touted as the quintessential Bahamian village. Its small circular harbour is dotted with colourful sailboats tied up to mooring balls. The quaint village itself embraces the eastern edge of the harbour in a semi-circle which slopes up to a small rise and then down the other side to the Atlantic. And so there is water on both sides--placid and murky within the crowded harbour--crashing and clear in the ocean. Pretty pastel cottages in shades of pink, blue, yellow, green and mauve spill down the hillside to the harbours edge. Each is distinct. There are “shuttered” cottages, some festooned with “gingerbread‘ and others sporting wide shady verandahs. The narrow “streets”--pedestrian traffic only--are edged with stone walls and white picket fences. And gardens overflow with colourful bougainvillea. But all of these pretty places are clustered together and most sport “Hopetown Hideways” rental signs. None of it seems REAL--not an actual Bahamian village--but a place occupied primarily by tourists and people with 2nd homes. There is a distinct feeling here that everything in this place is up “for sale.” But with the recession, nothing is selling.

While here we saw signs everywhere directing us to an “Art Show open house.” We went. The cottage itself was empty with a few amateur paintings covering the walls. Upon arrival we were greeted by a real estate agent and it was only then we realized we had been “taken in” by clever marketing. The small airless 2 bedroom cottage was surrounded by others--no privacy or views of anything other than the neighbours--and priced at $425,000! There were no takers. I felt very sorry for the young homeowners--speculators from Nova Scotia who already had 2 other homes and who seemed to be absolutely desperate to get rid of this property. Not at that price. Personally Vince and I couldn’t imagine living in Hopetown for any length of time but apparently there are many who can. We had dinner one evening with a couple from Texas who religiously return

here year after year. Go figure.

There WERE in actual fact several things about Hopetown that we did really like. Top of the list was the Hopetown Harbour Lodge. This venerable old place was gorgeous and spanned both sides of the street--sea to sea so to speak. The main lodge on the harbour side had a wonderful courtyard with comfortable wicker furniture, masses of flowers, a gurgling fountain and great views. Directly across the street from the Lodge itself, stone steps sheltered by flowering arbours led down to a beachfront bar/cafe. There was a pool with loungers and a collection of pretty villas which were also part of the complex. We found this to be a great place to have lunch and while away the afternoon or morning walking the beach, snorkelling, or just relaxing with a book in the shade of a tree or trellis. The food was good and reasonably priced. And every Wednesday they show a movie--outdoors, projected onto a large moveable screen.

Captain Jacks is also a great place. This crowded harbourside restaurant is a favourite meeting place for cruisers. The food is excellent and inexpensive. And almost every evening “something” is scheduled. We enjoyed going there for “Trivia” and had a great time meeting a few of the other cruisers and pitting our brains against them. We ended up winning a couple of free drink tickets and, if we were to return to Hopetown in future, would definitely do this again. There is a trendy coffee house with internet which is always packed, an ice cream shop and a few boutiques. There ARE things to do here but noisy, unsightly construction projects were underway while we were here and the feeling of crowds was just a bit too much for our liking. A marina with swimming pool is in the process of being built but it’s not there now. When it IS completed--that will make all the difference. At the present time however, cruisers who visit Hopetown must be tied up to a mooring ball. This means that you can’t get on and off the boat at will unless you use your dinghy. And all “toileting” takes place aboard the boat. If you wish to take a real shower, this necessitates a dinghy ride to a very grungy shoreside facility at $4. a pop. It is for these reasons--crowds, construction, the enclosed feelings and lack of EASY shore access--that we were not as enamoured with this place as we had been with some others. Four days later, when we had the opportunity to sail on out with a high tide and return once again to the wide blue yonder we were happy to do so.

ELBOW CAY

The Village of Hopetown is located on Elbow Cay. But it was the anchorages within reach of this island that we enjoyed being at more than staying on a mooring ball in Hopetown Harbout itself. And these anchorages were definitely among our favourites.

Elbow Cay is 6 miles in length. It’s possible to rent a golf cart at Hopetown and explore it end to end or, as we do, anchor in various locations along its length, dinghy ashore and explore on foot, bit by bit. At its southern extremity lies pristine “Tahiti Beach.” This is an enormous expanse of sugar white sand that is exposed at low tide. At other times the crystal waters that cover it are less than 2’ in depth making it a wonderful spot for lolling about in warm water and searching for the sand dollars which can be found here. Continuing north from Tahiti Beach, our next favourite place is “Sea Spray Marina.” Unfortunately the waters here are too shallow for us to actually be able to sail in and tie up our boat for an extended stay--which we’d love to do. So we anchor out just offshore and dinghy in to enjoy this facility. The restaurant here is one of our favourites. They serve a great breakfast in elegant surroundings--or al frescoe, and everything else on the menu is equally good. The attractive restrooms have clean showers and there is a lovely swimming pool for guests.

After Vince injured his leg playing Pickle Ball and was unable to “walk,” this was one of the places we were able to enjoy together. After spoiling ourselves with a leisurely breakfast at Sea Spray, I’d leave him comfortably ensconced poolside with a good book and then head off across the road to the Atlantic side of the island to enjoy exploring the beach and collecting shells. About noon we’d return to the boat and kick back in the cockpit where we’d experience a feeling of splendid isolation surrounded by unrivaled views of sea and sand. Another day at an Elbow anchorage, we’d head off to the Abaco Inn. This lovely resort is located about a mile north of Sea Spray on a small bluff above the crashing waves of the Atlantic. A few comfortable villas with wonderful views are available for rent here and there is a great little restaurant, bar and swimming pool for guests to enjoy. Coming for a meal here defines one as a “guest” enabling cruisers to spend the better part of a day enjoying all of the facilities this resort has to offer. This was also a great place for shelling and so Vince (with his injured leg) and I both, were able to spend time here doing things we were both able and interested in doing. On Wednesdays during the winter season, the Abaco Inn offers morning cooking classes. For a small fee guests can prepare a fish meal and then eat it for lunch! We didn’t take any of these classes this year, but next year will be sure to sign up. The anchorages off Elbow Cay are also accessible to “Lubbers Quarters”--a neighbouring island with a great shelling beach, CrackerP’s restaurant and a trendy bar. And of course the village of Hopetown, located on Elbow Cay is also within dinghy range.

We were never bored anchored off this island--we could spend a day in Hopetown, walk for miles along gorgeous beaches, collect shells, swim in shallow waters, eat out at a wide variety of venues, and enjoy breathtaking scenery--all within the range of a sheltered anchorage. And it was all just an hours sail from Boat Harbour--our winter home.