ICW # 4

We entered South Carolina a few miles shy of “The Rockpile”, a notorious stretch of water known for gutting boats. Along this 5 mile channel, ledges of sharp rocks lurk just below the surface of the water jutting out at the edges of the canal ready to gouge into the sides of any boat unfortunate enough to stray off course. Gingerly we approached. With our record of shoaling—six times now and counting—we knew we had to be extra careful. But we crossed without mishap and breathed a sigh of relief as the treacherous shoreline gave way to the condo communities, outlet malls, golf courses and other assorted civilized delights of North Myrtle Beach.

Just beyond the Socastee Bridge however, this heavily populated area of the ICW abruptly ends as the route enters the sanctity of the Waccamaw Wilderness Refuge. Here the beautiful Waccamaw River meanders through miles of pristine forest. “Anchorages are abundant, waterways deep and cruising is comfortable. At Georgetown a wide inlet provides access once again to the Atlantic. On both sides of this city broad expanses of water, open to winds and strong currents must be negotiated. While we were crossing this stretch, a huge cargo ship from the Bahamas approached from the south passing within just a few hundred feet of our boat. We were happy when we reached the far side of the inlet and were able to duck into the calm sheltered channel at the northern edge of the Santee Swamp. This area was different from anything else we had previously encountered. When Vince climbed the mast, delicate marsh grasses waving in the wind, stretched onward as far as his eyes could see. Without the ICW channel markers it would be very easy to get lost in the twisting maze of creeks, inlets and dead ends that characterize this area. Hunting season was in full swing but aside from shorebirds, the only signs of life that we encountered were small groups of men dressed in camouflage, huddling together for warmth as they sped by in open boats. Their forays into the swamp in search of prey continued throughout the night and in the morning we awoke to sounds of gunfire as they brought down their quarry.

Since Nov. 1st we have been in a race against time and weather. In order to safely cross the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas it is imperative to catch a “weather window” by mid-December after which time they invariably close making crossing difficult if not impossible. For this reason we are unable to stopover at the many interesting towns that we pass every day as we push ever southward. We have promised ourselves to explore these places in depth when we return this way next spring. But at Charleston we made an exception. Here we arranged to have a new 80amp alternator installed and spent a day touring the city. A free shuttle bus took us from the marina to the downtown “French quarter” where we enjoyed a delicious shrimp lunch at “Bubba Gumps” and then spent the afternoon strolling along the lovely streets. There is a very distinctive “southern” feel to Charleston. Tropical palmetto trees line all of the major streets as do quaint little specialty shops and restaurants painted with a pale palette of pastel colours. The gracious old residences boast wide porches and 2nd and 3rd story balconies and, those lucky enough to live in one, can walk to just about anywhere in the city.

The next day we pushed on through lowland country to Beaufort—the charming southern town where they filmed “The Big Chill”. Architecture here is very similar to Charleston with stately three-storied mansions lining the shoreside road. But here the palm trees have been replaced by gigantic “live oaks” draped with delicate veils of Spanish moss. These enormous trees are everywhere and form a sheltering canopy over the old part of town. We arrived at Beaufort in time for American Thanksgiving. A local church welcomed everyone to join them for a turkey dinner, but when Ed and Eva aboard “Makai” dinghied over and invited us for a celebration aboard their boat, we accepted their invitation instead. There were five of us for dinner. Steve, a young 23 year old from Toronto aboard “Lorcha” was also included and we all spent a wonderful afternoon together sharing past experiences and future strategies. We are going to “buddy boat” with “Makai” as we approach the next hurdle—the shallow undredged stretches of the waterway as it runs through Georgia. Steve, in his slower boat will no doubt bring up the rear and join us in anchorages at night. We have been warned that this next section holds some of the most challenging water along the ICW but traveling with friends bolsters our confidence and makes the experience all the more enjoyable.